Perfect Day on the Great Loop

Thursday, September 1, 2016

DONE

We finished The Loop on August 28, 2016 three years after beginning. We crossed our wake (the place where we began) at Charlevoix, MI . 7,000 miles roughly (at 10 miles an hour), three years and five separate legs of the trip, 5 weeks in Canada, 6 weeks in the Bahamas, a zillion locks of all kinds, boating conditions, terrain and weather of all kinds.........and we are done. I feel like I just graduated from college!

We never broke a prop or damaged the boat (amazing since roughly half the Loopers we knew did in the Georgian Bay).

We are still happily married!!! I have seen alot of captains along the way and Bill is the best there is (and not because we're married!)

This country is so varied and amazing. We have seen so much it boggles our minds. We learned so much hisotry that we never knew existed - it is not in the history books.
Seeing things by way of water, mile by mile in "slow motion" was priceless.

One of the biggest surprises was how social The Loop is. I really thought it was going to be just Bill and I out there together alone the whole time.

The Loopers we have met have been the best people ever. You could never find a more giving, caring group anywhere. Everyone was always ready to help each other out with mechanical problems or anything needed. There were impromptu docktails and dinners contantly with people we had never met before, but now had this in common. Everyone who does The Loop has a sense of adventure. We made so many great friends who we know will remain friends forever as we are already planning future events.

Our gold flag - It means you have completed the entire loop.

Another big surprise was how important learning to predict weather was. It was a non-stop issue with Bill checking all his sources several times a day, everyday. We had a lot of non-travel days due to weather.

Our GOLD Flag is flying as as we arrive home!! We earned it!!!

The bridge opening for us as we arrive into Charlevoix.

All of these Loopers were in Charlevoix harbor the day we arrived (we had only met a couple of them previous), We have never seen more than a few Loopers at a marina anywhere! We had a great potluck dinner that night at the marina where they toasted us and we all shared stories. It was funny to feel like the "old experienced ones". It was a really great way to end this adventure.

Finshing this is bittersweet, half happy and half sad it is over.

We never would've been able to do this in a solid chunk of time as many other Loopers do. Doing it in five legs really worked out great. Each time we came back we were renewed and excited again.

Bill missed the toasting and picture as we had an offer to buy our boat and he was showing it right then. We have had two people interested in buying Perfect Day in the last two days. People seem to recognize that she is the perfect boat for the Loop.

We are NOT selling "Perfect Day" right now! She is aptly named as she has been the best boat ever and has given us so many perfect days. We are going to store her here, in Charlevoix, MI, in indoor heated storage until next year. We know we can't move her until the weather thaws out next spring.

It will give us time to figure out what to do after this.

Bill really talked me into doing The Loop, but in the end I think I loved it as much as him, if not more.

A flight to Texas to pick up the dog, cat and truck and a 24 hour drive home and we are done. We are very excited to get to spend time with our new grandson!

"We never went under a bridge and wished we were driving over it".

We don't know what we are doing next.........

Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Mackinac Island and Harbor Springs

It was a very rough trip from Detour to Mackinac Island. It was so bad that Bill told me give it 15 minutes more and if I wanted him to turn around then he would. (He knew that if we got that far out I wouldn't want to make the turn to go back!) Friends that we were travelong with and other boaters didn't go that day. 4-5 foot waves on the beam with hardly any wave period when we started and we had 40 miles to go. I knew how bad it would be attempting to turn around but I played along with his offer, hung in there and it FINALLYy got better.

Mackinac Island has a huge history. The War of 1812 ended here when the British in one fort fired upon the Americans in another in a surprise attack. This was also the center of the fur trading business for the whole northeast. In 1895 they sold a fur here for $3,000,000. The buildings are all old Victorian and beautifully preserved.

We spent 3 nights here on Mackinac Island. We have been here many times, but this was different, being on our own boat and having more time . Of course I did the fudge sampling and ice cream, but I also rode my bike all over the island interior and saw things I have never had time to visit before. There is so much to see on this island. It was crowded, even for the middle of the week.

There are 650 horses on the island, lots of bicycles and carriages and no cars allowed, All the deliveries are done by horse drawn wagon. In the winter they bring things across by sled and snowmobile.

Arch Rock on Mackinac Island

The Grand Hotel- built at the turn of the century. When it was built it was the largest/grandest hotel in North America. It is still authentically furnished. Women are required to wear dresses in the evening.

Mackinac Island Bridge

Dinner at the Pink Pony with Lynne and Wayne (Lerylyne)

Dinner again at The Pink Pony ( had a good time there the night before so back again!) with more Loopers .

The Pink Pony

We never woul've guessed that doing the Loop would be so social. I thought it would be Bill and I out here all alone . Wow, was I wrong!!! Everyone we have met has been welcoming and helpful to each other.

Mackinac Island Lighthouse

Typical Victorian style houses with flowers everywhere.

View from Arch Rock

We were very concerned about the trip around Gray's Reef (which is notorious for being bad) to Harbor Springs, but it was not a problem. Rain almost whole way, but the seas were pretty calm.

Our worst boating experience on the whole Loop was 3 years ago, the day after we bought the boat. Brand new to this, we went around Gray's Reef in six foot seas- what a mistake! We left the port holes open, water filled up the bathroom drawers and was 3 inches deep on the floors.

We spent one night in Harbor Springs, whch is a very upscale resort town. We have always wanted to have our boat here! We took the dingy for a ride all around the bay so we could see the big, old. beautiful homes from the water that you can't see otherwise.

Meldrum Bay to Detour

We are moving faster than we anticipated as there are storms in the area we are trying to beat.

Meldrum Bay and Marina

Great dinner at the local Inn in Meldrum with Jack, Judy, Lyne and Wayne.

The Inn was the only building in this tiny town that was operating and not abandoned.

The Inn was bought sight unseen by an Iranian women - she has done a great job.

We cleared customs with a phone call to the Detroit Immigration office when we were near

Drummond Island (the USA again!). The US customs agent had such an accent and spoke such poor English it was difficult to understand and embarrassing (this is the USA right!). No problem getting back in - we had nothing to declare.

There are are lots of small, wooded, uninhabited islands around here.

You know your'e in a bubble world

when between three people no one knows what day of the week it is.

I may not be driving but at least I am near the Captain.

Fenders are called bumpers by Canadians.

We have not anchored nearly as much as we expected to on the Loop. Actually we have done more in the Georgian Bay than other places. Bill doesn't sleep when we anchor - he gets up and checks it constantly all night. We have stayed in marinas about 95% of the Loop.

The expense of marinas is way more than the cost of diesel fuel - that was a big surprise in the beginning.

Kawartha and Farquars Ice Cream here in Canada is the best anywhere (very creamy).

There are ice cream shops everywhere - even in the tiniest places that don't even have a restaurant. Everyone eats ice cream!

Book drop- a great idea! We found this in several small towns on a random street. You can take a book for free, no signatures needed.

We said goodby to Jack and Judy for the third time as they were taking another route, and sure enough they ended up in Detour with us and we had dinner again. That's how the Loop works!!

Thursday, August 25, 2016

Little Current- Bridal Veil Falls-Gore Bay
(Manitou Island)

Weather is a constant issue. Bill spends so much time each day checking weather sources.

The town of Little current was a nice stop. There was one restaurant, a grocery store to provision at and some cute shops. It IS the biggest town around here.

The shops sell a lot of knitted goods - knitting is big back here. The heavy winter clothes in the stores are amazing!

I am learning to move fast! In 90 minutes I made a batch of muffins, wrote a blog, walked to the grocery store and put the groceries away.

Bridal Veil Falls

A big storm was coming and Bill didn't want to stay in Kagawong (very tiny) so we stopped there for 2 hours for me to take the hike to Bridal Falls with Claudia and David and then we moved on. We stayed at Gore Bay (much bigger) for the night. When the storm hit that night I was glad we were in the safer marina.

Bridal Veil Falls

A fish trap the Indians use. The fish swim in the bottom and then the Indians spear them through the top.

Wedding dresses from one local family through the last hundred years, with a picture of the bride wearing it in the local museum.

We were told two weeks fron now this will be loaded with salmon - so many that you can walk across the river on them. Timing is everything!

Rough seas today - NOT a travel day!

Gore Bay

Tough boats of a different kind around here!

An older gentleman showed up on the dock at Gore Bay and offered to drive us anywhere we wanted in his minivan. Two other couples and us piled into the van and he gave us a 2 hour tour - drove us back to see Bridal Veil Falls again . He was so amazing. He sang us a song about the island (all 3 verses) showed us his pesonal pictures of the island over his lifetime and told us all the local stories. Charged us $30 (for all of us).

The biggest event ever here. Daniel Dodge heir to the Dodge Motor Company worth $9.000.000 married the local girl here in town against his families wishes. On their honeymoon here, after being married 23 days, he was messing with a stick of dynamite and he and his friends were severely injured. They were taken by boat to Little Current hospital and on the way his body fell off the boat.

After years in the courts she inhereited $2,000,000, but was forced to leave town because of the constant rumors. She married 2 more times, the last for 60 years, and has donated many things to the small town museum.

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

Baie Fine

This is the closest thing to a fiord you can cruise in. It is breathtaking!! We feel like explorers from the 1800's.

A storm passed through but we were fine.

We caught lots of little fish (3-4 inches) and threw them all back.

Baie Fine reminds us of Emerald Bay in Lake Tahoe.

Topaz Lake - We hiked up to here. It really is topaz color!!

We met a Canadian family here that was portaging (carrying) thier canoe from lake to lake on a week trip. Their longest portage was one mile. They had 4 kids in one canoe - ages 6 mo., 4, 7, and 9. Dad carried the canoe and tent, Mom carried the baby and all the food ( no baby backpack) and the kids carried thier personal stuff. It was incredible. There ae tons of lakes up here, but they are are up and down - there is no flat ground.

Finally after 3 years on the loop I learned how to operate the motor on the dingy and drive it myself - lots of practice here!

Anchored here two nights in the bay - one of the most beautiful places we have ever been!

The owner of the Evinrude (boat engines) Company used to bring his 115 foot yacht into Baie Fine for the summer and anchor. We have no idea how you could get a boat that size around some of these bends. He would test all his Evinrude engines here in the North Channel as he felt this was the toughest boating anywhere.

Killarney

The water has started to change colors as we headed into Beaverstone Bay on the way to Killarney becoming a much clearer blue.

The Collins Inlet on the way to Killarney was gorgeous - tall rocky cliffs, pine trees and blue water.

Killarney - small, cute and beautiful scenery.
The tiny little fish and chips white buiilding in this picture was circled on Edgar's navigation chart- (he was the previous boat owner AND owned restaurants). It was probably the best fish we've ever had!

Stayed here 2 nights enjoying the lodge and pool.

Killarney Mountain Lodge Marina - very welcome after Bad River.

A bear came at night and got into the marina trask right near our boat. It shredded the soda cans and left the beer cans alone.

Indians made these rock people for landmark directions - on occasion you see one

Hanging out at the lodge and trying to predict weather and choose destinations with
StillWaters and Lerylyne.

Sunday, August 21, 2016

Bad River
Bill really went out of his comfort zone taking us on a 3 mile side trip up the Bad River. I wanted to go as locals at Wright's marina told us we couldn't miss this as it was the essence of the Georgian Bay. They were right!

This is one of the best places we have been!

Up the river there was a small bay to anchor in with just one boat there. There were miles and miles of wilderness channels to zodiac through and explore. Pristine, untouched nature, and clear blue water This is the French Rivers area which has limitless waterways to explore by dingy. We didn''t see any bears or rattlesnakes although we were told they were everywhere - I had my bear mace with me all the time!

I would've like to stay longer, but we only stayed one night as the wind changed to the south and we needed to get out of the river before the swells got too big in the channel entrance.